I’m currently wondering how I can switch over my computer to make it PCI express compatible. I was wondering if I could by a PCI express computer cheap and then switch over my old computers components besides the graphics card. I currently only have PSI Bus… If I can’t, I need a list of the best components for the cheapest price to build a computer and I can sell my old one. If you have any ideas on what I should do to get a good gaming computer for 500-1000 , post here.

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3 Comments to “Computer Build?”

  1. JD says:

    New computer:
    AMD Athlon 64 X2 5200+ Dual Core
    LG SATA 18X DVD +/- RW Drive
    Galaxy 8800GT 512MB
    250GB Seagate ‘Barracuda
    2GB Transcend 800MHz
    19" wide LCD ASUS
    MSI K9N-NEO-F V3
    ATX H-60BK Black Case
    Total:$891
    This dosen’t include postage
    From: http://www.computeronline.com.au

  2. Nirbo says:

    Because PCI-e is such a new technology, the answer depends on just how old your PC is. And is likely no.

    You’d have to know what socket type your motherboard has, and then find one with the same socket type and a PCI-e slot. Then you’d have to check your RAM type against the supported types on the new board.

    In my case, it would have not been possible in the least. Or at least without being a pain in the rear.

    I recommend checking out the custom-built PC places in your town. I got my Q6600 Core2Quad, 3GB RAM, 8800GT machine for $1000 Canadian, and it plays pretty much anything out there on high graphic settings. And even then, one of the other machines they built was $600 without a PCI-e card, so you could buy a cheaper one if so desired.

  3. Chickster says:

    Since your computer uses a PCI slot for graphics, you would be much better off installing a new motherboard, ram, and processor. AMD is cheaper, but the quality isn’t cheaper. I’m an Intel man myself. Just how it goes. Some people love Chevy’s,(Me too! ‘Vettes!), sum people love Ford’s. You can indeed use the peripherals again,(CD/Dvd-rom/burner, monitor, harddrive, mouse, keyboard, etc.) I would advise a new, and better power supply. A motherboard is the ‘Building Block’ of the computer. Processor is the ‘Brain’, and the power supply is the ‘Heart’. Don’t know what computer make and model you’re referring to. The computer case may be of a BTX form factor design, and may or may not allow you to use an ATX form factor mobo,(Motherboard), or an ATX Psu, (Power Supply Unit). But if so, this is what I recommend for a mobo with really decent PCI-Express x16 capabilities, and a mobo that can be upgraded to the max.
    Evga nForce 680i SLI
    http://www.tigerdirect.com/app.....=E145-2014
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6M9Oc7piQDs

    Capable of supporting processors up to a 1333MHz FSB. Can support Pentium 4 up to Intel Core2 Quad.
    Has four ram slots that use PC6400,(DDR2 at 800MHz), and can use 1200MHz DDR2 ram.
    Up to 4GB’s with a 32bit O/S, (Realize that a 32bit O/S, like WinXP Home, or Pro->32bit, will only ‘recognize’ 3.2GB’s to 3.5GB’s of ram), 8GB’s with a 64bit O/S.
    Two PCI-Express x16 slots that are the 1.1 version. The Nvidia 680i chipset allows both PCI-Express slots to operate at 16x, when two graphics cards are used. Not 16x for one, and 8x for the other like sum mobo’s! A PCI-Express 2.0 graphics card is backward compatible with a PCI-Express 1.1 version slot.
    Now comes the ‘kicker’. This mobo has ONE IDE header,(Connection), and SIX Sata headers. If you have an IDE,(ATA and PATA are same/same), harddrive, you can use the IDE header. You will need to buy a Sata DVD burner. (Didn’t even list a CD player or burner. I feel that’s redundant. A DVD burner will play and burn CD’s as well as DVD’s.) One more tiny thing to add to this equation. When you install a IDE harddrive that has Windows on it, the harddrive may not operate. When Windows is installed it matches ‘codecs’,(Small pieces of Code), to three main components on your computer. The mobo, the harddrive, and the processor. (The BIOS program, and version on the mobo to be more specific.) These codecs are sent to Microsoft when you activate your genuine copy of Windows. Change two of them, and Windows will want to be activated again. Some times changing the motherboard alone does it, because you have changed the processor also. You might as well buy a decent 500GB Sata harddrive, and a new copy of Windows. OR you can try out Ubuntu. (Also suggest Wine and Compiz Fusion. Search on YouTube for more info.)

    Ram: http://www.tigerdirect.com/app.....No=2206874
    Processor:http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3574211
    Power supply:http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2486983&CatId=106
    My suggestion of graphics card:
    http://www.tigerdirect.com/app.....p;CatId=28
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BkUJYKnsgd4
    http://www.tigerdirect.com/app.....p;CatId=28
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v.....re=related

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